Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Chile

There are a couple of things that  I love about Chile.

First of all, there is the way that they treat their stray dogs. Stray dogs are often seen around the city; sitting on street corners, sleeping near cafes, crossing streets in pedestrian walkways, etc. But unlike in the States, these dogs do not appear to be malnurited or mangey. Instead, they often sport healthy looking hair and friendly countanences. This seems to be because instead of rounding up the puppies and bringing them to the pounds, stray dogs are taken care of. Chileans seem to take pride in feeding stray dogs. One of the central parks in Santiago is set up with serveral public dog houses and watering bowls. And it is not too shocking to see people on the street walking by dogs give them a pat on the head or words of appreciation. These are not stray dogs, the city's population has clearly adopted them collectively.

Second of all, they serve avocadoes on everything. I love fresh fruit and fresh vegetables. And Chile, with its California like climate (though flipped; cooler weather in the south, warmer weather in the north), is a prime place for agricultural treasures. All the fruit is delicious. The only problem comes when you discover an overripe apriot or bruised cherry, because unlike the States the fruit is allowed its natural demise. You just have to be careful to pick the best of the crop. Avocadoes are especially popular here. I have seen them on most of my sandwiches and salads, and have even seen them on the hot dogs (on some thing called an Italian hot dog, which is called so because it has avocados, tomatoes, and mayonnaise; the colors of the Italian flag). This phenomenon of perfect fruit extends to their "jugos naturales" or Natural Juice, which is usually some kind of slightly sweetened fruit that has been juiced or blended. The most common types being Pina (pineapple) and frambuesa (raspberry). I  usually order frambuesa, but the domasco (apricot) might just be my favorite (unfortunately, I have only seen it in one restaurant in Valpariso).

Third of all, the best Vanilla Ice Cream in the World is produce and sold in Santiago, Chile in what is considered by some to be the best Ice Cream and Sorbet shop in Santiago, Chile called the Empirio del Rose. If you are ever in Santiago, this is the place to stop for Raspberry and Mint sorbet, Chocolate and Orange ice cream, and of course, Vanilla. Most Vanilla ice creams are plain and are what you have come to expect from ice cream, but the vanilla served here tastes as close to vanilla, cream, and sugar as you will ever get.

Fourth of all, the parks are breathtaking. From Cerrito Santa Lucia (a small hill in the middle of Santiago City with a castle in the middle and a tower from which you can see all of Santiago on a clear day) to the square in the middle of Vina del Mar. They take excellent care of the parks; it seems that every time you walk through a park there is someone there tending the plants or sidewalks.

Fifth of all, which I feel like I have to mention for my dad, there is never a long wait for a train when taking the metro (seriously, no more than like 3 minutes when transferring or after missing the first one). Added to that, the metro is pretty clean and people are pretty good at giving up their seats for people who need them  more. A huge difference overall from the DC Metro system that I am used to.

Sixth, the views from the hills of Valparaiso (a city to the Northwest of Santiago near the coast) are breathtaking and the palms trees of Vina del Mar (North of Valparaiso, still on the beach) provide picturesque shade from the obvious sunlight that heats the sand of the beaches. While Valparaiso's coast is more of a shipping port, you can hop on a commuter train from the Bellavista stop to the Vina del Mar stop (like my mother and I did our last full day on the coast) and ten minutes on the train and you are in a beachy, tourist city with people in bikinis lying on the beach getting a tan.

PS please forgive all my misspellings of Spanish words. I can barely spell in English, let alone a second language.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Vacation

For the past week and and a half I have been back in the United States, enjoying a break from travelling alone in worlds unknown. Instead, I spent the weekends at home near DC with my parents cleaning out my bag and repacking for South America, and the week in New Orleans visiting my aunt and grandmother on my father's side.

My family is heading to South America for our annual winter holidays reunion. The only Christmas that we have ever spent apart was the year my grandfather passed away. Holidays in my immediate family are important for being together. Even the year my sister spent in Australia, we all headed down under to celebrate together.

Why Chile this Christmas? My brother is spending his first quarter of Junior year abroad in Chile. And while my family doesn't need an excuse to travel, we used this one anyways. So for the next 2 and half weeks I'm back with my family.

People often ask me where I got so brave to travel. The thing is, my family travels. It is part of what we do together. Just walking down the street of Chile we compare it to the places we've been together before or the places we've seen on our own.

Of course, the family reunion is not complete until my sister joins us in Peru next week, but we are anxiously awaiting her arrival!

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Getting Lost

I think the best way to figure out how to get around a new city is to get lost.

Not the kind of lost where you are asking for directions, but the kind of lost where you know approximately where you are, if not what street you are on.

This forces you to explore a bit, get out of your comfort zone, and take in the city's architectural charms.

Just be sure that you don't do it after dark, cause when you get lost in the dark there aren't really any visual contexts to hang onto.

Let me tell you, getting lost in Galma Stan, the Old Town of Stockholm is especially fun as it is a little island that you could probably see all the streets of in a day.

Copenhagen to Stockholm

I have been know to oversimplify in my time....


Similarities

Lots of 7-Elevens
Lots of H&Ms
Bicycle Lanes
Royal Families
Royal Palaces that you can walk into
Candles on all the tables in restaurants and outside to indicate a "cozy" atmosphere
Nordic (or North Germanic to be more specific) Languages, though in Denmark it is Danish and in Sweden it is Swedish, obviously, you can still hear the similar words and pronunciations. I bet that if you knew one you could hold a fast-paced conversation with someone speaking the other.
History of Vikings and trade
Used to part of the Union of Kalmar, which was a political alliance between Sweden, Denmark and Norway.

Differences


Stockholm is more surrounded by water than Copenhagen. Stockholm consists of 14 islands that are linked together while Copenhagen juts out of the Zealand island of Denmark.

Royal Guard in Sweden consists of male and females and the units are not organized by height. In Denmark the Royal Guard is all male and the units consist of men of the same height (meaning when you visit the palace all the guards uniformity short, tall, or average).

Sweden was never occupied by the Nazi. While Copenhagen's monuments and building still remember the Nazi occupation, Sweden was able to remain neutral throughout World War II. In fact, over 7,000 Danish Jews were refugees from Denmark to Sweden during the war (out of the 8,000 Danish Jews that lived in Denmark at the time).

To be fair I shouldn't be making any comparisons between these two unique cities, but seeing as they share so much of the same history it is hard not to.

As I mentioned, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway belonged to the Union of Kalmar united under Queen Margaret originally from the 1300s until 1523. Then, Sweden breaks from the union. This is a problem because then the control over the Baltic is seemingly up for grabs.


While Denmark originally controlled land on both sides of the strait, in 1658, Charles X, the Swedish king claims the whole of the Swedish peninsula as theirs.

So Denmark and Sweden have a very interesting history, and Copenhagen and Stockholm, as the predominate seats of power have their share of history. To read more about it, and to understand how religion, royal families, and eventually Germany fits into the story: http://www.historyworld.net/wrldhis/PlainTextHistories.asp?groupid=561&HistoryID=aa59&gtrack=pthc

To be quite honest, I'm still not sure of the whole story, because depending on what side of the Sound you are on the attitudes change.

The Danish and... (Part II)

Speaking of their Royal family, let me tell you about...

...their hygge

I think  part of the reason that the Royal family is so secure in going out in public is this idea of hygge. Hygge, in the literal translation to English means cozy, but to the Danish it means so much more. Hygge is a kind of community, a understanding that people in Denmark will take care of their families in communities. My tour guide argued that hygge was the reason that the Danish voted for the party that would raise taxes instead of the party that would lower them. They take pride in the fact that they pay for their community and that they take care of others.

This could also be why Denmark has been voted the happiest country for the past 8 years (another fact noted by my informed tour guide).

Hygge is symbolized all over Denmark by candles that sit in windows, on restaurant tables, and outside cafes on the cold winter streets. The candles are "cozy."

Speaking of their hygge, let me tell you about...

...their shoe-less feet

Part of hygge means that the Danish are very into hospitality, but let me tell you, when you go into a Danish person's house you will probably be asked to take off your shoes.

It is tradition.

Plus it keeps the floors clean.

Speaking of their shoe-less feet, let me tell you about...

...their public transportation system

Their transportation system is also clean, and extensive, and technologically advanced, and used by many Danish people instead of cars.

Speaking of their public transportation system, let me tell you about...

...their bicycles

And if they aren't using public transportation or cars, they are biking. Which is easy to do in Denmark because they have their own road, and traffic lights. Usually set between the road and the pedestrian walkways lie the bicycle paths, which are very sophisticated. They even have double lanes in some areas for the people on their bikes turning left.

You haven't been to Denmark if you haven't gotten on a bike.  Note to self: we are back to driving on the right side of the road. Get used to it.

Speaking of their bicycles, let me tell you about...

...their museums

The one and only time I was on a bike in Denmark I was headed to a museum. While most museums in Copenhagen have a fee, if you are on a budget, I would recommend stopping by the National Musuem (http://www.natmus.dk/sw20374.asp) to see perfectly preserved viking corpses and runestones or The Danish National Gallery (http://www.copenhagenet.dk/CPH-Map/CPH-Gallery.asp) to see centuries of Danish Art (and the history that goes along with it).

Speaking of their museums, let me tell you about...

...their pastries

I'm sorry, but my mind always seems to go to the food. After a bike ride to the museum, and a couple of hours studying the paintings, a snack is much appreciated. And you know what they say: When in Denmark!

Saturday, November 26, 2011

The Danish and...

Danish people and...

...their pastries

Of course, the first thing you think of when you think Denmark is Danishes. And I don't mean the people, I mean the delicious breakfast pastries that usual manifest themselves with custard, jam, and frosting (And if this in not your first thought when thinking about Denmark, then you obviously don't think with your stomach like I am wont to do).

I admit, from the beginning, I was determined to try as many pastries as possible in the 5 days I was in Copenhagen. And while my first day started slowly, by the end of the trip I was planning pastry runs before I left the house.

The best Danish I had was filled with raspberry jam, and I purchased it (along with a chocolate pastry) on the Norreport Street that leads from the center of the city towards the neighborhood where I was staying. Technically the coffee shop where, Truc (a friend from college) and I stopped was not in Central Copenhagen, but nonetheless, the pastry was the most memorable).

Bakeries in Copenhagen are marked by a golden pretzel topped by a golden crown. Find this sign and you have found the perfect place for Danishes.

Speaking of their pastries, let me tell you about Danish people and...

...their 7-Eleven's

But specialty bakeries are not the only place that you can find good pastries.

I found, one morning while running to a sightseeing tour, that the 7-Eleven's perched on nearly every street corner of Copenhagen offer 2 pastries for 10 Kronor. Because most pastries cost around 15 Kronor for one, this seemed to me a good deal. Plus, I was going to miss the tour.

Surprising, even the 7-Eleven's in Copenhagen seem to produce good pastries. They were fresh from the oven (though no telling how long ago they were first baked), and the abundance of 7-Eleven's around the city (that are of course opened 24/7) makes these pastries a cheap, convenient snack.

Speaking of 7-Eleven's, let me tell you about Danish people and...

...their Baresso Coffee

Another popular chain in Denmark (or at least Copenhagen) is Baresso Coffee.

Denmark's version of Starbucks, this store is seen quite often to one walking around Copenhagen (though never quite as often as the 7-Eleven's are seen). Opened by a Danish man who lived in Italy for 20 years, the story goes that he returned and was unable to find a decent cup of coffee.

Like all brilliant men who cannot find coffee to their specifications, he decided to create his own chain, and Denmark produced its major coffee chain.

While I cannot speak to their pastries, they do serve a good cup of coffee, if you are willing to part with upwards of $5 for a simple regular coffee.

Speaking of Baresso Coffee, let me tell you about Danish people and...

...their prices

Going to the supermarket in Denmark is not too expensive, but go out to a restaurant and the prices might surprise you.

Needless to say, Denmark dining is expensive.

The only thing that you can by for a meal that is not too expensive comes from a kebob restaurant. What Mexican food is to the United States, Middle Eastern food is to Denmark. You can find many kebob and durum restaurants in the ethnic suburb of the city, as well as many food trucks that sell durums to people within the city. They are about as common as hot dog stands.

So if you want a good, filling meal, at a decent price in Denmark, head towards the nearest sign with the word  "kebob."

Speaking of their prices, let me tell you about Danish people and...

...their free tours

But like many cities, their is always something to do in Copenhagen that won't cost you a dime (or a Kronor).

The tour I went to in Dublin (Sandeman's New Dublin Tour) also offered a 3 hour tour of Copenhagen (Sandeman's New Copenhagen Tour) which was enjoyable 3 hours. I saw the Royal Palace, the Royal Chapel, the oldest street in Copenhagen, the location of the beginning of the First Great Fire of Copenhagen (there were four Great Fires) the current City Hall, the past City Hall, the place where they executed people, the location of the attic where Hans Christian Anderson lived, the former Opera House, the Nazi headquarters during the German occupation, the channel, the current Opera House, and the Royal Guards (not precisely in that order).

Again, I recommend the Sandeman's tour if you are ever in Dublin or Copenhagen, or the other 12 cities that they provided free walking tours in. I just have one favor: if you are ever in Copenhagen and take the tour, and your guide's name is Gareth, tip him extra for me? I only had a 100 Kronor note in my pocket and was not able to get change to give to him.

Speaking of their free tours, let me tell you about Danish people and...

...their amusement parks

But while their are some amusements that are free, others are not.

As we all know, amusement parks are notoriously expensive. Lucky for me, Hope let me borrow her season pass to Tivoli (the world's second oldest amusement park and Disney's inspiration for Disneyland).

While I didn't go on any rides the experience of sipping hot chocolate with whipped cream in the Christmas market is not to be missed. The entire park is lit up with Christmas lights that would put even the most ambitious homeowner to shame. And the hot chocolate was quite good, too. I have heard that the best way to have it is with rum.

Speaking of their amusement parks, let me tell you about...

...their Mermaids

Tivoli might not exploit the story of the Little Mermaid like Disney did, but the city of Copenhagen did erect a statue of the mermaid on the east coast of the city.

Not much to say about this except that it seems like many Danish people consider this memorial to be one of the most disappointing tourist attractions in the world.

I cannot disagree.

Speaking of their Mermaids, let me tell you about...

...their idols

We all know that the Disney version of the Little Mermaid was written by Hans Christian Anderson, who also brought us children stories like the Emperor's New Clothes and the Ugly Duckling. What many people don't know is that the Little Mermaid is actually a very, very, very sad story that makes me want to never fall in love.

But, alas, Hans Christian Anderson is one of Denmark's most notable idols. And let me tell you they take great pleasure in reminding any tourist that he is indeed from their great city. He was, of course, the one to declare that "to travel is to live," so I suppose I'll forgive the original mermaid story.

Speaking of their idols, let me tell you about...

...their opera

So when H.C. Anderson first came to Copenhagen he wanted to be a choir boy in the Royal Opera Theatre, so he rented the attic space in the hotel across the street and bugged the Choir Master to let him sing. Eventually, this led to Anderson's involvement with the theater, where he eventually became a writer.

And let me tell you that their original Opera House is beautiful, though under renovation.

They currently have a new Opera House, brought to Denmark by the Moller foundation (The people who own Maersk. Unfortunately, the Danish people seem to be split on whether or not they like this addition to the city harbor.

Speaking of their opera, let me tell you about...

...their Royal family

The royal apartments are a stone throw away from the Copenhagen Opera House. And you can go right into the area. In fact, there is a museum located in the basement of one of the four houses where the royal family lives, so tourist are in and out all the time.

Spottings of the Royal family are common place, as members tend to leave their apartments frequently and venture out of the compound.

The Danish are very proud of their new princess (originally an Australian citizen) as the story is quite a fairy-tale romance. Two people meet in a bar, they fall in love, he proposes, she accepts, he tells her he's the crown prince, she gives up her citizenship, and they live happily ever after.

Friday, November 25, 2011

Thanksgiving

Spending Thanksgiving alone. The price of freedom costs more than just money.

I feel like the first Thanksgiving after college is a symbolic holiday. Many of my friends are striking out on their own for the first time this holiday. Instead of going back to their parents' houses they are planning the big meal and inviting new co-workers and friends over to their apartments.

Funny thing is, I don't miss that. Though I am often reminded that I have been giving up that precious first year on my own, I figure I'll have it next year.

Or not, because what I really miss is dinner with my family and friends. And if I'm in the States next year, you can bet I'll be pooling my money to head back home for that one night.